CHAPTER LII. LES PONTS (The Bridges)
ONCE more to the south-western corner of this "bonne ville de Paris."
The first bridge over the Seine within the city boundary, beginning at
this end, is the Viaduct d'Auteuil. The second is Pont-Mirabeau, dating
from the last decade of the nineteenth century. Pont de Grenelle is of
earlier date (1825). The Statue of Liberty we see there (Bartholdi) is
a replica in reduced size of that sent to New York. Pont de Passy first
spanned the Seine as a mere footway at the time of the Exhibition of
1878, rebuilt in its present form in 1906. Pont d'lena has a greater
historic interest. Its construction was set about in 1806. It had just
been finished when in 1814 Bliicher and the Allies proposed to blow it
up. Royal influence prevailed to save it. It was called thenceforth
till 1830 Pont des Invalides.
Pont de l'Alma, that emphatically Second-Empire bridge with its four
Napoleonic soldiers, a Zouave, an infantry man, an artillery man, and a
chasseur, was built between the years 1854-57. It was still unfinished
when on April 2nd, 1856, Napoleon III and a sumptuously accoutred
cortege passed across it to present flags to the regiments returned
from the Crimea. Pont-des-Invalides was built in 1855.
The first stone of the very ornate Pont Alexandre III, formed of a single arch 107 metres long, was laid with great ceremony by the Czar Nicholas II in 1896. It was opened in 1900.
A truly historic bridge is the Pont de la Concorde, built between
1787 and 1790, finished with stones off the razed Bastille, and called
at first Pont Louis XVI. Louis' head fell, and the bridge became Pont
de la Revolution. Twelve immense statues of famous statesmen and
warriors were set up on it in 1828. They wereconsidered too big, and in
1851 were taken away to the Cour d'Honneur de Versailles.
Pont de Solferino, built in 1858, records the victorious Italian campaigns of 1859.
Pont-Royal was designed by Mansart and built in 1689 by Dominican
monks to replace a smaller, more primitive bridge which had been known
successively as Pont-Barlier, Pont-des-Tuileries, Pont-Rouge, and Pont
Ste-Anne; it underwent restoration in 1841. Pont des
Saints-Pères, or Pont du Carrousel was one of the last of Paris bridges to pay toll; built in 1834, restored in recent years.
Pont-des-Arts, so called from its vicinity to the Louvre, leading in
a straight line from the colonnaded archway of the Court Carree to the
Institut, was opened in 1804, restored 1854.
Pont-Neuf, the most characteristic of Paris bridges, dates back to
the reign of Henri III. The King himself laid its first stone in 1578,
but it was not finished till 1603, when Henri IV was King. "Le bon Roi"
determined to be the first to cross it on horseback, and while it was
still unsafe spurred his thoroughbred along the unfinished bridge way.
His lords, hastening to follow where their master led, were jolted out
of their saddles, and falling upon the unparapeted structure, rolled
into the river and were drowned. Louis XIII set up a statue of his
father on horseback on the bridge; the statue of the horse was a gift
from Cosimo de' Medici to Louis' mother. At the Revolution it was
overturned, taken away, and melted down to make cannons for the
insurgents. Louis XVIII replaced it by a statue made of the bronze of
the first statue of Napoleon that had been set up on Place Vendome and
that of his general, Desaix, on Place des Victoires. Though set up by
the Bourbon King, the figure we see is believed to contain within it a
statuette of Napoleon I and Voltaire's Henriade. Until 1848
there were shops within the semicircles we see on either side of the
old bridge, and beneath the second archway near the right bank there
was one of the first hydraulic pumps, known as "la Samaritaine." Its
water was conveyed to the Louvre, the Tuileries, and to houses all
around, and fed the famous old fountain built in 1608, destroyed a
century later, rebuilt in 1715, again destroyed after another hundred
years, with the figure of the Samaritan woman giving water to our
Saviour. The bathing-house near the spot with its sign, and the big
modern shop of hideous aspect, alone remain to record the name of the
ancient pump and fountain. Two or three ancient houses still stand on
the Place du Pont-Neuf in the middle of the bridge. At its picturesque
western point we see the tree-shaded square Henri IV, known also as the
Square du Vert-Galant. Place Dauphine, at its south-western side, dates
from the days when Henri's son, later Louis XIII, was dauphin.
The Pont St-Michel we see to-day was built in 1857. The first bridge
there, joining the mainland to the island on the Seine, was constructed
towards the close of the fourteenth century. That bridge and two
successive ones were destroyed by fire.
Pont-au-Change, the Money-changers' Bridge, was in olden days a
wooden construction which went by the names Pont de la Marchandise and
Pont-aux-Oiseaux. Jewellers as well as money-changers plied their trade
along its planks, perhaps also bird merchants. It was a little higher
up the river in its early twelfth century days and was often flooded.
It was badly burnt, too, more than once; then in the seventeenth
century was entirely rebuilt of stone, and bronze statues of the royal
family, Louis XIII, Louis XIV as a child, and Anne d'Autriche, set up
there. In the century following the houses upon it were all cleared
away and in 1858 it was again rebuilt.
The Petit-Pont joins the lie to the left bank at the very same spot
where the Romans made a bridge across the river, one of two which
spanned the Seine in their day, and on beyond. Like all town bridges of
the Middle Ages it was made of wood and each side thickly built upon
by houses and shops; windmills, too, stood on this ancient bridge,
grinding corn for the citizens around. And where we now see the Place
du Petit-Pont there stood a wooden tower, la Tour de Bois, erected to
protect the bridge against the invading Normans. At the Musée
Carnavalet an ancient inscription may be seen, recording the names of
twelve warriors who fought here to defend their city, led by Gozlin,
bishop of Paris, in 886. In the twelfth century Maurice de Sully, the
builder of Notre-Dame, rebuilt the bridge in stone, but flood and fire
laid it in ruins time after time. The last destructive fire was in the
spring of 1718. It was then rebuilt minus its wooden houses. The
present structure dates from 1853. The place was built in 1782,
when the Petit Châtelet; which had succeeded the Tour de Bois,
was razed. In Rue du Petit-Pont we see some old houses on the odd
number side. Many were demolished when the street was widened a few
years ago.
The other bridge of Roman times, succeeding no doubt a rude
primitive bridge, stretched where the Pont Notre-Dame now spans the
river. The Roman bridge, built on staves, was overthrown by the Normans
in 861. Rebuilt as Pont Notre-Dame in 1413, it crashed to pieces some
eighty years later, carrying down with it the house of a famous printer
of the day. It was alternatively destroyed and rebuilt several times
till its last reconstruction in 1853. Its houses were the first in
France to be numbered (1507). There were sixty-eight of them and the
numbering was done in gold or gilded ciphers. All these old houses were
pulled down in 1786. Pont Notre-Dame was the "bridge of honour."
Sovereigns coming to Paris in state crossed it to enter the city. Close
up to it stood for nearly two hundred years—1670 to
1856—the Pompe Notre-Dame, from which all the fountains of the
district were supplied with water.
Pont d'Arcole, built as we now see it in 1854, succeeded a wooden
bridge erected in 1828 with the name Pont de la Grève, commonly
called Pont de la Balance. It gained its present name, recalling
Napoleon's victory of 1796, in the Revolution of 1830, when a youth at
the head of a band of insurgents rushed upon the bridge waving the
tricolor and shouting: "If I die, remember my name is Arcole."
Pont-au-Double, so called because to cross it passengers paid a
double toll for the benefit of the Hôtel-Dieu, is a
nineteenth-century construction, replacing the original bridge of the
name built in the sixteenth century, a little higher up the river.
Pont de l'Archevêché dates from 1828. Pont St-Louis,
joining l'île de la Cité to l'île St-Louis, was
built in 1614 as a wooden bridge painted red and called, there fore,
Pont-Rouge. Like all wooden erections of the age, it was damaged by
fire, and in the eighteenth century at the time of the Revolution,
"icebergs" on the Seine knocked it over. An iron footbridge was put up
in its place and remained till 1862, when the bridge we see was built,
Pont Louis-Philippe was built in the same year to replace a suspension bridge paying toll.
Pont de la Tournelle, built as we see it in 1851, began as a wooden bridge of fourteenth-century erection.
Pont Marie was not, as one might suppose, named in honour of the
Virgin, nor after Marie de' Medici, who laid its first stone. It simply
records the name of its constructor, who was
"Entrepreneur-Général des Ponts de France" at the time.
Fifty houses were built upon it. Some were destroyed, by floods a few
years later, others razed in 1788. The two Ponts de Sully are, except
Pont de Tolbiac, the most modern of Paris bridges, built some years
after the Franco-Prussian war, replacing two older bridges of slight
importance. Pont d'Austerlitz dates from 1806, the year of the great
battle. When the Emperor fell the Allies demanded the suppression of
the name, and the French Government of the day called the bridjje Pont
du Jardin du Roi, referring to the Jardin des Plantes in its vicinity.
The name did not catch on. The people would have none of it. It has
remained a reminder of Napoleon's victory. It has been enlarged more
than once, the last time in 1885. Pont de Bercy was built in 1835,
rebuilt 1864. Pont de Tolbiac, in 1895. Pont National, a footbridge, in
1853.
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