CHAPTER XLIX. BOULEVARDS—QUAYS—BRIDGES

THE BOULEVARDS

THE Paris boulevards are one of the most characteristic features of the city. The word boulevard recalls the days when Paris was fortified, surrounded by ramparts, and the city boulevards stretch for the most part along the lines of ancient boundary walls, boundaries then, now lines in many instances cutting through the very heart of the Paris we know.

The Grands Boulevards run from the Place de la Madeleine to the Place de la Bastille—gay and smart and modern, in the first kilometres of their course; less smart, busier, more commercial, with more abundant vestiges of bygone days as they stretch out beyond the boulevard des Italiens.

The boulevard de la Madeleine follows the line of the ancient boundary wall of Louis XIII, razed during the first years of the eighteenth century. Its upper part on the even-number side was one side of an old thoroughfare reaching as far as Rue de la Chaussée d'Antin, known in its early years as Rue Basse du Rempart. The latter part stretching to Rue Caumartin is of recent date. The old Rue Basse des Remparts was bordered by handsome hotels, the dwellings of notable persons of the day: vestiges of several of them were until recent years still seen in boulevard des Capucines—Nos. 16 to 22 razed when the new street Rue Edouard VII was cut. In the reception-room of a seventeenth-century house that stood at the corner of the boulevard and the Rue des Capucines known as the Colonnade, Buonaparte first met Joséphine.

Boulevard des Italiens gained its name from the Italian theatre there in 1783. This name was changed more than once in subsequent years. After the Revolution, when the Royalists who had taken refuge beyond the German Rhine returned to Paris and held meetings on this boulevard, it was nicknamed "Le Petit Coblentz." No. 33 (eighteenth century) is the Pavillon de Hanovre, forming part in past times of the hôtel d'Antin, which had been owned in its later days by Richelieu, then was divided into several dwellings, and in the time of the Merveilleuses one of these sub-divisions of the fine old mansion became a dancing saloon, bal Richelieu, and the meeting-place of the Incroyables. Rue du Helder, which we see opening at No. 36, was in those days a cul-de-sac, i.e. a blind alley. The bank there (No. 7) was erewhile the famous cabaret "le Lion d'Or," and at No. 2 Cavaignac was arrested when Napoleon made his coup d'état. No. 22 of the boulevard was the far-famed "Tortoni." No. 20, rebuilt in 1839, now a post office, is the ancient hôtel Stainville, later Maison Dorée. No. 16, till a year or two ago Café Riche, dating from 1791. No. 15, hôtel de Levis, was once the Jockey Club. On the site of No. 13 stood till recent years the famous Café Anglais. At No. 11 was the club "Salon des Italiens" in the time of Louis XVI, subsequently the restaurant Nicolle and Café du Grand Balcon, its first story commonly known as Salon des Princes. At No. 9 Grétry lived from 1795 till hisdeath, which happened at Montmorency in 1813. No. 1 Café Cardinal founded by Dangest (eighteenth century).

Boulevard Montmartre dates from the seventeenth century, lined in olden days on both sides by handsome private mansions; we see it now a thoroughly commercial thoroughfare, one of the busiest in the city. A modern journalist called its carrefour—the point where it meets the Rue du Faubourg Montmartre—"carrefour des écrasés" From the house, now a newspaper office, at No. 22 an underground passage ran in past days to the Café Cardinal opposite, leading to an orangery. On the site of No. 23 stood the gambling-house Frascati, built on the site of the old hôtel Taillepied. The Café Véron at No. 13 dates from 1818, opened through the gardens of the hôtel Montmorency-Luxembourg. Passage Jouffroy at No. 10 was cut, in 1846, across the site of an ancient building known as the Maison des Grands Artistes. The théâtre des Variétés, at No. 7, first set up at the Palais-Royal in 1770 by "la Montansier," was built here in 1807 on the grounds of the hôtel Montmorency-Luxembourg. No. 1 is the site of the Café de la Porte Montmartre, founded by Louis XV, a meeting-place of Parisians hailing- from Orléans, nicknamed Guépins.

Boulevard Poissonnières (seventeenth century) begins where hung till recent years an ancient sign at No; 1 —"Aux limites de la Ville de Paris"—recording the inscription once on the old wall there. Most of the houses are those originally built along the boulevard, and many old streets run into it on either side. At No. 9 we see Rue St-Fiacre, dating from 1630, when it was Rue du Figuier, a street closed at each end by gates till about 1800. The restaurant Duval at No. 10 of the boulevard was an eighteenth-century mansion. No. 14 is known as Maison du Pont-de-Fer. No. 19, now l'École Pratique du Commerce, was till a few years ago the home of an old lady who, left a widow after one happy year of married life, shut herself up in the house she owned, refused to let any of its six large flats, and died there in utter solitude at the age of ninety. No. 23, designed by Soufflot le Romain in 1775 as a private mansion, became later the dépôt of the famous Aubusson tapistry.

Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle, named from the church Notre-Dame de Bonne-Nouvelle in Rue de la Lune, dates from the seventeenth century. No. 21 was built after the Revolution with the stones of the old demolished church St-Paul. No. 11, in 1793, with some of the stones of the Bastille. The theatre, le Gymnase, which we see at No. 38, erected in 1820 on the grounds of a mansion, a barracks and a bit of an old graveyard, was known during some years as the théâtre de Madame la duchesse de Berri, who had taken it under her patronage. Its façade was rebuilt in 1887.

The church just off the boulevard was first built in 1624 on the site of the old chapel Ste-Barbe, and named t)y Anne d'Autriche, perhaps in gratitude for the good news of the prospect of the birth of a son (Louis XIV) after twenty-three years of childless married life, or, as has been said, on account of a piece of good news communicated to the Queen when passing by the spot. The edifice was rebuilt in the nineteenth century, the tower alone remaining untouched. Within it we find an old painting of Anne d'Autriche and Henriette of England.

Boulevard St-Denis (eighteenth century). The fine Porte St-Denis shows in bas-relief, the victories of Louis XIV in Germany and in Holland. It has been restored three times since its first erection in 1673. The Revolutions of 1830 and 1848 began around this grand old Porte. Paving-stones were hurled from its summit. At No. 19 we see a statue of St-Denis.

Boulevard St-Martin (seventeenth century). Its course was marked out, its trees planted a few years earlier than that of boulevard St-Denis. On its handsome blackened Porte, built in 1674-75, we read the words: "A Louis-leGrand pour avoir pris deux fois Besançon et vaincu les Armées allemandes, espagnoles et hollandaises." Like Porte St-Denis, it has been three times restored. The Allies passed beneath it on entering Paris in 1814. The first théâtre de la Porte St-Martin was built in the short period of seventy-five days to replace, with the least delay possible, the Opera-house near the Palais-Royal, burnt down in 1781. It was the Opera until 1793. The structure we see was erected in 1873, after the disastrous conflagration caused by the Communards two years previously. We see theatres and concert-halls along the whole course of the boulevard. The Ambigu at No. 2 dating from 1828 was founded sixty years earlier as a marionnette show on the site of the present Folies Dramatiques. This part of the boulevard was formerly on a steep incline, with steps up to the théâtre Porte St-Martin. Its ground was levelled in 1850. The novelist Paul de Kock lived at No 8. No. 17 was the abode of the great painter Meissonnier. The théâtre de la Renaissance is modern (1872), built on the site of the famous restaurant Deffieux which had flourished there for 133 years. It was for several years Sarah Barnhardt's theatre.

Boulevard du Temple, its trees first planted in the year 1668 when it was a road stretching right across the area now known as Place de la République, was at that particular point a centre of places of amusement of everydescription—theatres, music-halls, marionnette-shows. All were closed, razed to the ground, to make way for the grand new place laid out there in 1862. Of the old walls within which Parisians had for long years previously found so much distraction and merriment, vestiges remain only at Nos. 48, 46, 44, 42 of the boulevard. No. 42 is on the site of the house where Fieschi's infernal machine was placed in 1835. The restaurant at No. 29 is on the site of the once widely known Café du Jardin Turc. The théâtre Dejazet records the name of the famous actrice. The two short streets, Rue de Crussol and Rue du Grand Prieuré, were cut across the grounds of the Grand Prieuré de France in the latter years of the eighteenth century.

Boulevard Filles-du-Calvaire, named from the ancient convent, dates only from 1870. The streets connected with it are older. Rue des Filles-du-Calvaire was a thoroughfare in the last years of the seventeenth century, and at No. 13 we find traces of the ancient convent. Rue Froissard and Rue des Commines, memorizing the two old French chroniclers, were opened in 1804 right across the site of the convent and its grounds. Rue St-Sébastien dates back to the early years of the seventeenth century, and we see there many interesting old houses. No. 19, with its Gothic vaulting, is probably the hôtel d'Ormesson de Noyseau, a distinguished nobleman, guillotined at the Revolution. Rue du Pont-aux-Choux, made in the sixteenth century across market gardens, got its name from an old bridge which spanned a drain there.

Boulevard Beaumarchais began in 1670 as boulevard St-Antoine. No. 113, a sixteenth-century structure, was known till 1850 as the Château. The words we see engraved on its walls—"A la Petite Chaise"—refer to a tragic incident. The head of the princesse de Lamballe, earned by the Revolutionists on a pike, was plunged into a pail of water set on a low chair placed up against this wall to clear it of the dribbling blood. No. 99, its big doors brought here from the Temple palace, is the hôtel de Cagliostro, the famous sorcerer.

Rue des Arquebusiers, opening at No. 91, dates from 1.720, when it was Rue du Harlay-au-Marais. Santerre lived here for a time. No. 2 stands on the site of the house where Beaumarchais died in 1790.

Boulevard Henri IV is modern (1866), cut across the site of two old convents. Rue Castex leads out of it where stood once the convent des Filles de Ste-Marie; its chapel, now a Protestant church, is entered at No. 5. The Caserne des Célestins was built in 1892 on the site of part of the large and celebrated convent of the Célestins, an Order founded in 1244 by the priest who became Pope Celestin V.. The Carmelites who at first were established here, greatly disturbed by inundations from the Seine who overflowed her banks in those long-past ages, even as she does to-day, quitted their quarters on this site. The Célestins who came to Paris in 1352 and took over these abandoned dwellings were protected and enriched by Charles V, inhabiting the Palais St-Pol close by. The Order was suppressed in 1778, before the Revolution suppressed all Orders—for the time; and in 1785 the convent here was taken for the first deaf and dumb institution organized by abbé de l'Epée. The convent chapel with its numerous royal tombs, the bodies of some royal personages, the hearts of others, was razed in 1849. Some vestiges of the convent walls remained standing till 1904. Where the boulevard meets the Quai des Célestins, we see now a circular group of worn, ivy-grown stones; an inscription tells us these old stones once formed part of the Tour de la Liberté of the demolished Bastille. They were unearthed in making the Paris Metropolitan Railway a few years ago. The birds make the remnant of that old tower of liberty their own to-day and passers-by stop regularly to feed them.

Crossing the Seine we come to the boulevard St-Germain, beginning at boulevard Sully in arrondissement V, stretching right through arrondissement VI and ending at the Quai d'Orsay near the Chambre des Députés in arrondissement VII. Though in name so historic and running across interesting ground, the boulevard is of modern formation. It has swept away a whole district of ancient streets. The Nos. 61 to 49 are ancient, all that remains of Rue des Noyers erewhile there. At No. 67 Alfred de Musset was born (1810). The théâtre de Cluny is on the site of part of the vanished couvent des Mathurins. The firm Hachette stands where was once aJews' cemetery. No. 160 was the restaurant now razed where Thackeray, when a young student at the Beaux-Arts, took his meals. A sign-board he painted long hung there. We see some old houses of the ancient Rue des Boucheries between Nos. 162 and 148. At No. 166 we turn for an instant into Rue de l'Échaudé, dating from the fourteenth century, when it was a chemin along the abbey moat, a street of ancient houses. The word échaudé, a confectioner's term used for a certain kind of three-cornered cake, signifies in topographical language a triangle formed by the junction of three streets. The pavement-stones before Nos. 137 to 135 cover the site of the ancient abbey prison. Rue des Ciseaux bordered in olden days the Collège des Écossais. The statue of Diderot at No. 170 was set up on his centenary as close as could be to the house he dwelt in, in Rue de l'Egout. The hotel Taranne records the name of the thirteenth-century street of which some vestiges remain on the odd-number side of the boulevard between No. 175 and Place St-Ger-main-des-Pres, where Saint-Simon lived and wrote. The little grassy square round the house at No. 186 was originally a leper's burial-ground, then, from 1576 to 1604, a Protestant cemetery. Looking into the Rue St-Thomas-d'Aquin, once passage des Jacobins, we see the church which began early in the years of the eighteenth century as a Jacobin convent. At the Revolution it was made into a Temple of Peace! The frescoes of the ceiling are by Lemoine.

The modern boulevard Raspail opening at No. 103 brought about the destruction of several ancient streets; where the boulevard St-Germain meets Rue St-Domi-nique three or four fine old mansions were razed to the ground and that old street, previously extending to Rue des Saints-Peres, cut short here. A fine eighteenth-century hotel stood till 1861 on the site of the Bureaux du Ministere des Travaux Publics at No. 244. The minister's official residence at No. 246, dating from 1722, is on the site of one still older, at one time the abode of the dowager duchess of Orleans. That portion of the Ministere de la Guerre which we see along this boulevard is a modern construction. We see modern structures also at Nos. 280, 282, 284, all on the site of fine old hotels demolished at the making of the boulevard. At some points of boulevard Raspail, stretching from boulevard St-Germain to beyond the cemetery Montparnasse, we come upon vestiges of the ancient streets demolished to make way for it; here and there an old house, a fine doorway, and at No. 112 a lusty tree, its trunk protruding through the garden wall, said to be the tree beneath whose shade Victor Hugo sat and pondered or maybe wrote several of his best-known works, while living in an old house close by.

Starting now from the Place de la République, we pass up the busy modern boulevard Magenta without finding any point of special interest. The Cité du Wauxhall at No. 6 was opened in 1840 on the grounds of a more ancient Wauxhall. The big hospital Lariboisière in the adjoining Rue Ambroise-Parée was built from 1839 to 1848, on the clos St-Lazare and named at first Hôpital Louis-Philippe. Its present name is in memory of the countesse la Riboisière, who gave three million francs for the hospital. The boulevards Barbes and Ornano run on from boulevard Magenta to the district of Montmartre. They are of nineteenth-century formation and without historic interest. No. 10, boulevard Barbes, was once the dancing saloon "du Grand Turc."

The bustling boulevard de Strasbourg which boulevard Magenta crosses, a continuation of the no less, bustling boulevard Sébastopol, both great commercial thoroughfares, was formed in the middle of the nineteenth century across the lines of many ancient streets and courts. Ancient streets ran also where we now have the broad boulevard du Palais on l'Ile de la Cité, crossing the spot on the erewhile Place du Palais where of yore criminals were set out for public view and marked with a red-hot iron.

The buildings we see there on the odd-number side opposite the Palais de Justice: the Tribunal du Commerce, the Préfecture de Police, the Firemen's barracks, are all of nineteenth-century erection. So we come to the boulevard St-Michel, the far-famed "Boule-Miche" of the Latin Quarter, forming the boundary-line between arrondissements V and VI. As a boulevard it is not of ancient date. It began at its northernly end in 1855 as boulevard Sebastopol, Rive Gauche. Soon it was prolonged and renamed to memorize the ancient chapel ere-while in one of the streets it had swept away. Place St-Michel from which it starts has to-day a modern aspect. Almost all traces of the ancient Place du Pont St-Michel, as it was in bygone days, have vanished. The huge fountain we see and cannot admire, though perhaps we ought to, replaces the fountain of 1684. The arched entrance to the narrow street Rue de l'Hirondelle, once Irondelle, as an old inscription tells us, which began in 1179 as Rue de l'Arondale-en-Laas, and the glimpse at a little distance of the entrance to ancient streets on the boulevard St-Germain side, give the only old-world touch to the place. The high blackened walls we see in this Rue de l'Hirondelle are the remains of the ancient college d'Autun founded in 1341. At No. 20, on the site of the ancient hotel of the bishops of Chartres, is an eighteenth-century hotel. No. 38 of the boulevard is on the site of the house belonging to the Cordeliers, whose monastery was near by, where the royal library was kept from the days of Louis XIII to 1666. The Lycée St-Louis, founded in 1280 as the college d'Harcourt,. covers the site of several ancient structures. A fragment —the only one known—of the boundary wall of Henri II, is within the college grounds, and beneath them the remains of a Roman theatre were found in 1861, and more remains in 1908. Where the boulevard meets Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, the city wall and a gate of Philippe-Auguste passed in olden days. And that was the site of the ancients place. No. 60, the Ecole des Mines founded in 1783, and housed at the Mint, at that time an hôtel Rue de l'Université, then transferred to Montiers in Savoie, finally settled here in 1815 in the hôtel Vendôme built in 1707 for the Chartreux, let in 1714 to the duchesse de Vendôme, who died there soon afterwards. This fine old structure still forms the central part of the Mining School. At No. 62 we see the Geological Map offices. In the court of No. 64 we find a house built by the Chartreux, inhabited in past days by the marquis de Ségur, and in later times by Leconte de Lisle. The railway station Gare de Sceaux at No. 66 covers the site of the once well-known Café Rouge. In the old Rue Royer-Collard opening at No. 71, in the sixteenth century Rue St-Dominique d'Enfer, we see several quaint old houses. Roman pots were found some years ago beneath the pavement of the impasse. The house at No. 91 is on ground once within the cemetery St-Jacques. César Franck the composer lived and died at No. 95 (1891). No. 105 is the site of the ancient Noviciat des Feuillants who went by the name "anges guardiens." The famous students' dancing saloon known as bal Bullier was at this end of the boulevard from 1848 till a few years ago.

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